Router Woodworking

Drill Press Fence

Why a fence for the drill press? Won't a punch mark do? How about scribe or knife lines?
What about a laser? Aren't they close enough? The answer is: You don't need a fence to drill holes.
A few clamps might be nice, but for rough work (+/- 1/32") you don't need a fence.

Especially one that adjusts to a mil, or one that is flat* , straight and square to the table. Moreover, you don't need a fence that has the rigidity of a Bridgeport nor the adjustability of one. But if you demand precise work positioning with an ordinary drill press you might enjoy this luxury.

Its 11 pound mass is not for girliemen. There are no weight saving extrusions. It is made from solid, ground cast, rigid, aluminum jig plate; it's heavy. It has both pivot and fine-screw parallel adjusters. It is anchored on one end with a precision ground SS shoulder bolt; the other end is to be clamped in place. A special plate and pad, part of the fence, is provided for this purpose.

The fine-adjust screw assembly is off center to avoid conflict with the drill press column. Its travel is a generous 1.40". The 18" work face has been shifted to the center of the fence to compensate for this oddity. The moveable section of the positioner incorporates a 45° double dovetailed plate that is captured by 2 phenolic mitered keys. It is this mechanism that allows its straight and precise travel whilst being clamped/fixed to the table.

A left hand stop is continuously adjustable from ~ -1.0 to >+16". The fence face is 3/8" x 1-7/8" x 18". The over all length of the fence is 22". All hardware & an SPI 1.000" travel dial indicator are included. A .500 x 3" ground steel pin is supplied to locate the fence .250" from the quill center, a reasonable starting point. This $1285 fence is hand made, milled and calibrated by me. Freight is included. Email pat@patwarner.com for questions or purchase.

*(to +/- .001")

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Copyright © 2015 Pat Warner
Last modified: Tue Oct 20 09:06:33 PDT 2015